The Ultimate Guide to Danish Silver Jewellery Designers (2024)

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Interested in Danish silver jewellery? Check out ourillustratedguide to the top jewellery designers from Denmark

1) ANTON MICHELSEN

Anton Michelsen was born in 1809 in Copenhagen, Denmark. His family had been metal smiths for generations. He undertook a goldsmiths apprenticeship in 1939 before moving to Copenhagenwhere he continued his training at J B Dalhoff's workshop.

He was also a student at the Royal Danish Academyof Fine Arts. In 1836 he travelled abroad and worked at some of the foremost gold smithies in Paris, France and Germany.

Above:Anton Michelsen Getrude Rougie silver leaf brooch, and 1950's modernist silver necklace

He returned to Denmark in 1841, where he established his own workshop Copenhagen. His work soon attracted the attention of the Royal family and he was given the title of Royal Court Jeweller.

After his death in 1877 his son Carl Michelsen continued with the firm. He collaborated with various artists including Hans Tegner, Arnold Krog, Harald Scott-Moller and Martin Nyrop.

In 1914 his sonPoul Ulrich Michelsen joined the firm. He continued to manage the company after his father died in 1921.

He collaborated with artists such as Olaf Stæhr Nielsen, Ib Lunding,Sven Hammershøi,Palle Suenson and Arne Bang. For several generations, his was the top firm of gold and silversmiths, with a great influence onScandinavian silver jewellerydesign throughout the 19th and early 20th century.

Above:Anton Michelsen silver flower broochfromModern Vintage Style and Michelson/Getrude Rougie silver floral brooch

2) VOLMER BAHNER

Volmer Bahner (1912-1995) was a multi-disciplined designer and artist from Denmark.He studied at the Industrial Arts and Crafts College receivingseveralawards and scholarships.

After graduating in 1930 he became know for his sculpturalworks. He created various busts in bronze and ceramics.

Above: Volmer Bahner white enamel parure,and sterling silver figural brooch

Many of these were represented at theDanish Museum of Art and Design.Volmer Bahner was also renownedforbeautifulsilver and enamel jewellery .

He started a specialist enamel jewellerycompany which was registeredfrom 1962 to 1988.Hisinnovative modernist and natureinspireddesigns were created and manufactured in his own silver workshop .

Bahner took inspirationfrom the plants and flowersin the Danish countryside.He produced beautiful pieces including the cala lily.This was made in several colour variations including a variety of blues, deep red, and white. The designwas used for necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and brooches.

He also producedArt Deco style jewelleryinsimple non figurative designs. Well known and easilyrecognisable Volmer Bahner pieces are his heartand animalmotifs including fish and butterflies. Thesewere made in different arrangements.

Hisjewellery signature is his initials VB, generally accompanied by STERLING DENMARK.

Above: Volmer Bahner blue enamel parure,

3) HANS HANSEN

Hans Hansen (1884-1940) started his own silver smithy in the Jutlandtown ofKolding, Denmarkaround1906. By the 1920's Hansen was making his own line of products.Initially the firm producedflatware. After this was successful they started making jewellery.

Above:Hans Hansen silver boomerang brooch,andBent Gabrielson for Hans Hansen silver triangle necklace

In 1931 the jewellery was designedby Hansen himself, however, jewellery production really began in 1932 when Hansen's son Karl GustavHansenbecame the main designer and the company established a reputation for superb modernistdesign.

Karl Gustavdesigneda collection called "FUTURE". This comprised about 50 pieces,including rings, brooches, earrings, etc.

,

Above:Hans Hansen silver Peak bracelet238 and Hans Hansen silver ring

Other designers such as Bent Knudsen and Bent GabrielsenPedersen also worked for the company. In the 1980's Allan Scharf was the lead designer.

In 1991thefirm was taken over by Royal Copenhagen. For more onHans Hansen click here.

4) HENNING KOPEL

Henning Kopel (1918-1981) trained as a sculptor at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts from 1936 to 37. He spent the war years in Sweden where he designed some jewellery. After returning to Denmark in 1945 he joined the Jensen workshop where he was employed as a designer even though he had not worked with silver jewellery.

Above : Henning Koppel for Jensen sculptural brooch#324 ,andKoppel for Jensen modernistsilver "splash" bracelet

He produced beautiful original modernist jewellery concepts from 1945-47.His brooches displayed free form amoeba like shapes , while glowing blue or brownenamelgave energy to the pieces. His bracelet designs incorporated a beautiful blend of form and movement.

Above: Henning Koppel for Jensensterling silver star brooch #339 and Henning Koppel necklace 130B

Jensen jewellerystamped with the Henning Koppel signature generally fetches the highest prices at auction.Koppel's inlaid designs were quickly adopted by 1950's costume jewellery designers in Denmark in the production of free form brooches. These were made using cheaper materials such as Bakelite with pewter or exotic woods with chrome plated metal or silver.

5) NE FROM

NE FROM was born in 1908 in Denmark and trained as a silversmith. His silver smithywas founded in 1931 as a small workshop for jewellery repairs. A wholesale production company was established in the late 1940's joining in with theprosperous and lucrative period of Scandinavian design.

Above:NEFrom silver modernist bracelet,andNE From silver floral brooch

NE FROMgenerally exported 50% of production to Western Europe, the United States, and Japan. There are twodistinct styles in the NE From jewellery production. In theearly years floral and foliage pieces were designed by NE From. In the 1960's bold modernist style pieces were introduced by another designer.

Above:NEFrom amber silver necklace,andNE From silverand rose quartz disc bracelet

Different signatures were used by the company. Small pieces may be marked "FROM". Some have"NE FROM, STERLING, DENMARK, 925S" in a square. Others may have the NE FROM signature in an italic style.

Above:NEFrom silver and tigers eye brooch and,and Ne From green chalcedony ring

These days NE FROM jewellery availability is limited and therefore prices for collectors have risen accordingly. He is know as one of the greats of modernist Danish jewellery design. For more onNE FROM click here.

6) HUGO GRUN

Hugo Grun was a very respected silversmith from Copenhagen, Denmark. He was part of theScandinavian Art and Crafts "Skonvirke" movement.He started his workshop in 1918 and it continued until 1985. Grun himself was active from 1918 to 1937. His workshop productionencompassed many styles from "skonvirke" (Danish Art Nouveau style) , through Art Deco, 1940's floral styles topost World War 2 modernism.

Above: Hugo Grun 830 silver roe deer bracelet, and Hugo Grun silver butterflies necklace 1950's

7) GEORG JENSEN

Georg Jensen has beenthe leading name in 20th century Danish silver jewellery design and the firm has dominated silver and hollowwaremarkets in Denmark and worldwide. Jensen (1866-1935) was an apprentice goldsmith in Copenhagen at 14 , followed by several years in technical school .

Above:Georg Jensen silver moonstone pendant 360 B,andrare Georg Jenson silver dove moonstone bracelet 24

However, he put all this training to one side for 12 years whilehe studied ceramics and sculpture.In 1904 he decided to sculpt in silver.

He opened his own workshop and successfully exhibited jewellery in both Germany and Copenhagen. He was soon exporting to Paris and London. His international profile rose after he won the gold medal at the Brussels Expo in 1910.

Above:Georg Jensen silver butterfly brooch 283andRare Georg Jensen Ole Kortzau brooch 395

Jensen was an astute businessman. He hired very skilled designers and craftsman who added their individual interpretations to the "skonvirke" style. Jensen's treatment of silver in high relief was warm and tactile.The jewellery designs featured coral, amber, garnet, lapis or carnelian stones as contrasting elements which nestled or burst from silver leaves in sensual swirls.

Above:Georg Jensen Heritage Ear Clips Year 2000andGeorg Jenson silver dove in foliage brooch

Jensen and other designers in the firm who followed after his death continually renewed the company .Their innovative designs and fresh ideas have kept the company at the forefront of Danish design. Jewellery comprises only 25 % of the firm'soutput. Theyalso producehollowwareand flatware. More detailed information on the Georg Jensen firm can be found here.."About George Jensen"

8) BERNARD HERTZ

Bernard Hertz was a highly respected Danish goldsmith. Born in Copenhagen, Denmark in 1834, he completed his studies as a goldsmith in 1858. His graduationdesignpiece was an arm ring. This was bought by Frederick VII who gave it to Countess Danner. T

Above: Bernard Hertz 1950's silver bracelet, and Bernard Hertz silver fly link bracelet.

The ring can be seen on display in the Danish Design Museum. With the money from this saleHertzset up his own business. He specialised in modern style jewellery with flower motifs, as well as replicasof ancient jewellery. In order to reach a wider customer base he began producing jewellery in silver instead of gold andintroduced machine power into his production in1887.

Above: Bernard Hertz green stone bracelet and Bernard Hertz silver floral bracelet 1940's

Jewelleryproduction covered all the major style eras, however, the firm's most prominent periodwas around the early 20th century. They were leaders in the "Skonvirke" style (Danish Art Nouveau). Brooches in this style are much prized by collectors, commanding high prices.

9) OLE LYNGGAARD

His daughter Charlotte Lynggaard (also a designer and goldsmith) joined the company in 1987. His son Soren Lynggaard joined the company in 1994 and since 2003 has been CEO . They have awell established and solid reputation as a value conscious luxury brand.

10) JACOB HULL

Jacob Hull was an artist and sculptor who became famous in the early 1970's when his work was exhibited internationally. He was well travelled living in several places including Finland. He eventually made his home in Jutland, Denmark. He made original one off pieces of solid sterling silver jewellery at his studio which sold for very high prices.

L to R: Jacob Hull rough amethyst silver large pendant, and Jacob Hull amethyst and silver cuff.

The other side of his production was to create silver and goldplated pieces for Buch + Deichmann, which bore their stamp. This jewellery was sold at the high end Danish department store Illums Bolgius.All the jewellery was hand made made at Hull's workshop , although he did employ an assistant to help make some of the more popular Buch + Deichman pieces. Hull was very particular about retaining intellectual property rights to his jewellery as his work was popularand often copied.

Above: Jacob Hull silver crater statement necklace and Jacob Hull silver ring

Everything that left his workshop had to have one of his stamps. These were Jacob Hull in script or initials, J.HULL, or Jacob. His designs were original and modernoften using large unpolished rough gemstones on hammered metal for cuffs or chokers. He also used glass and metal in his designs. Hull died in 1993 after a fire at his house in Denmark.

11) S CHRISTIAN FOGH

Danish silversmith S Christian Foghhad a workshop in Copenhagen, Denmark, which was in operation from 1947-1973. He was known for his lovely quality jewellery and also for his flatware.

12) AARRE AND KROGH

Aarre and Krogh were Danish silversmiths situated in the market town of Randers in Jutland, Denmark. Their workshop produced jewellery from 1949 to 1990. They became well know for their distinctive modernist jewellery which featured stylised flowers and foliage. The high quality nature of their work is the reason that there jewellery remains popular today withfine silver jewellery collectors.


Above: Aarre and Krogh silver bracelet andAarre and Krogh silver choker necklace

13) BENT GABRIELSEN PEDERSEN

Bent Gabrielsen Pedersen was a student at the Danish College of Jewellery and Silversmithing which formed all the major artists in Denmark from its beginnings in 1952. He designed smooth silver boomerang style earrings and bracelets.

He then designed "atomic jewellery" with enamel for the Hans Hansen firm in theFifties, taking over the jewellery design department fromKarl Gustav Hansen in 1953.

Above: Rare Bent Gabrielsen Necklace for Hans Hansen necklace andgold neck collar, Bent Gabrielsen for Hans Hansen

His own variation of the circle form of the late Fifties was a necklace of connected links. It was hung with a pendant in the style of Thor's Hammer. One of his well known pieces was the "sycamore seed pod" necklace he designed for Georg Jensen.

He was the winner of the Gold Medal at the Triennale in Milan. After this in 1962 he created a bracelet which was a cuff of silver interlaced "fingers" for Hans Hansen. For more onBent Gabrielsen click here.

14) ARNE JOHNANSEN

Arne Johansen, was born inDenmark in 1927. In 1951 he qualified as a silversmith and in 1954 he opened hisworkshop in Roskilde Denmark. His sleek and minimal modernist designs were muchadmired and he went on to become a leader in the field of Danish modernistjewellery design.

Above: Arne Johansen silver arcs necklace and Arne Johansen boomerang necklace

15) HARALD NEILSEN

Harald Nielsen was born in 1892. At first his interests lay with painting.However as the younger brother of Georg Jensen's third wife, Johanne, he soon became involvedwiththeJensen silver smithy. He began working in 1909 as a chaser's apprentice before working his way up to becomedesigneratthe Jensen smithy school of apprentices. In 1954, he became director of thesmithy before becoming artistic directorin 1958 . He held this positionuntil 1962.

Above: Harald Neilsen silver leavesbracelet for Georg Jensen, and Harald Neilsen moonlight grapesnecklace for Georg Jensen

He was one of the first to design mass produced silver broochesand belt buckles to be sold at reasonable prices. He broke out from the traditionalist naturalist themes to create Deco or "Funkis" pieces to compete withimported costume jewellery.

He was a close colleague of Georg Jensen and his style was comparable to that ofJohan Rhode.Both favoured form and line over ornamentation.

He became the technical interpreterof Rhode and Jensen's designs and he turned their early design sketches into precise drawings. These were used by the silversmiths tocreate the jewellery.

Above: Harald Neilsen moonlight blossom brooch, and Harald Neilsen silver earrings

After Jensen's death in 1935 Neilsen worked to ensure that the high quality output of the firm continued.He hired skilled designers and silversmiths training them in line with the standards of the Jensen silver smithy. His most famous recruit was Henning Koppel.

He ensured the smooth transition from the first generation of Jensen designers ( himself, Jensen, and Rhode), to the new generation of designers.

Neilsen himself designedmany pieces of hollowwareand jewellery including the "Pyramid" flatware collection.

16) FRANTZ HINGELBERG

Having trained as a goldsmith Frantz Hingelberg was 26 when he founded his workshop in Arhus in 1897. Hehad been able to secure a much sought after location at the Lion Pharmacy building on Main Square 5 in Aarhus.

His earliest customers were churches for whom he designed a variety of fine quality silver pieces. In 1919he succumbed to Spanish flu which had spread through Europe to Arhus . His wife then took control of the company until 1924, when it was taken over by his son William Hingelburg.

Above :Hingelberg 9 carat gold bangle and Hingelberg sterling silver cufflinks

In the late 1920's he hired silversmith Svend Weihrauch as artistic director. Weihrauch had previously designed for Jensen and brought the craftsmanship and style he had learned there to Arhus. The Hingelberg company became a successful business under Weihrauch's leadership.

In the 1930's his quirky floral brooches and rings displayed the Jensen influence. In the forties he produced bright enamelled brooch designs in a more simplified organic form.

Svend Weihrauch was a very prolific designer. During his twenty-eight years at Frantz Hingelberg's, he produced approximately 4,500designs for jewellery, holloware, and cutlery. Most of these went into production.

The " F.H." signature was a sign of quality on all of Weihrauch's designs. In 1987 the firm was taken over by Andkjaer and Aaquis, however in 2014 after 117 years the shop finally closed its doors.

17) BENT KNUDSEN

Bent Knudsen joined the Hans Hansen company in 1946, where he developed his own distinctive style. In 1956 he opened hisown workshop in Kolding with his wife Anni. They shared the same design ethos

They created minimalist jewellery pieces with simple amethyst, hematite, or malachite accents. The production was very wearable and elegant.

Above : Rare Bent Knudsen silver bangle and Bent Knudsen amethyst and silver ring

In 1969 he produced a bracelet stacked with square rings.There was also a matching ring. This modernist design broke free from the deceptively simple style of the Fifties. He used the signature "Bent K" to identify work by himself and his wife.

Above: Rare Bent Knudsen silver necklace 83 and Bent Knudsen silver brooch

18) KAREN STRAND

Danish craftswoman made a major contribution to Danish design in the 1950's. Karen Strand (born in 1924) was one of these women. She was one of the first to take advantage of the classes at the College of Jewellery and Silversmithing in Denmark.

In 1953 she won the first prize in the Jeweller's Competition . After this she joined the A Dragsted workshop in Copenhagen where she eventually became its director.

Above: Karen Strand for Anton Michelseniconic silver Persian palm brooch, and Karen Strand 1960'S 18 crt gold blackagate leaf necklace

A popular design was a 1956 parure based on the lyre, followed by a more elaborate necklace design of two rows of silver petals. She also designed brooches for Anton Michelsen such as the 1953 - 55 sterling silver persian palm motif brooch.

19) NANNA AND JORGEN DITZEL

Nanna (1923 - ) and Jorgen Ditzel (1921-1961) studied at the School of Arts, Crafts, and Design in Denmark.They were a married couple who also enjoyed a fruitful working relationship. Although bothwere trained as furniture designers, they found the transition to jewellery making quite easy..

Above: 1956 Ditzel brooch for Georg Jensen, Nanna and Jorgen Ditzel necklace Nanna Ditzel 1970's silver ring

Beginning with beautiful red striped enamel brooch for Anton Michelsen in 1953, they continued with a series ofimportant pieces for Georg Jensen in the 1950's and 60's. They inspired future generations of silver jewellery designers.

Above: Nana Ditzel 1970's silver ring andNana Ditzel Jensen silver earrings 131

Famous pieces were their 1956 necklace which comprised a waterfall of silver petals. All the smooth lines of their bracelets, pins, and earrings were very carefully crafted.

Nanna Ditzel continued with her clear design ethos in London where she lived and worked from 1970 onwards.

20) EVALD NIELSEN

Evald Nielsen (1897-1958) worked as an apprentice goldsmith in Copenhagen in 1893. Ten years later he travelled abroad in France and Germany, taking in continental styles and techniques.

Above: Evald Neilsen 1930's 14 caratgold necklace with moonstones,and Evald Neilsen broochstyle (Danish Art Nouveau)

When he returnedto his wife and child in 1905 he decided to work hard for other firms until he was then able to establish his own workshop. He used lapis or chrysoprase cabochons in sumptuous settings similar to the Jensen style.

Hisbrooch depicting a bee sucking honey won a Grand Prize at the Paris Expo . In 1944 his "Mood" collection featuring jolly silver stick figures playing sports or musical instruments reflected the countries relief at the retreat of the Germans.

21) ERIK MAGNUSSEN

Erik Magnussen was a self taught silversmith. He briefly studied in Berlin in 1907, however he was too independent minded to be taken on by a workshop. He created amazing naturalistic silver gilt and porcelain brooches of insects from 1905 to 1915.

He then decided to try his luck in America and was hired by Gorham Silver Co as artistic director. where he worked until the crash of 1929. He opened a shop in New York which failed, however an impulse toadorn movie stars proved a fruitful venture in 1930's Los Angeles.

He returned to Denmark in 1939 where he made jewellery with a nationalistic theme. His work was signed with the "EM" monogram and ERIK MAGNUSSEN.

Above: Erik Magnussen beetle pendant and Erik Magnussen silver enamel birds brooch

He then decided to try his luck in America and was hired by Gorham Silver Co as artistic director. where he worked until the crash of 1929. He opened a shop in New York which failed, however an impulse toadorn movie stars proved a fruitful venture in 1930's Los Angeles.

He returned to Denmark in 1939 where he made jewellery with a nationalistic theme. His work was signed with the "EM" monogram and ERIK MAGNUSSEN.

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Above: Erik Magnussen opal and sapphire stylised butterfly gold pendant

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